The road to Kona Village, a Rosewood Resort weaves two miles across black, hardened lava on the Big Island of Hawaii. It was taking me to the coast, where I could see palm trees popping up beyond a barren field. It felt like I was heading for an oasis far removed from the crowds.
When I arrived, I was met by a team of resort staff who whisked away my suitcase and car as well as any cares I had left in my mind. A lei was placed around my neck and a tropical drink in my hand, and I was quickly checked in at a lanai, where I could feel a welcoming breeze coming off the ocean.
This 81-acre resort sprawls along the shore of Kahuwai Bay. The setting is gorgeous, with palm trees, white- and black-sand beaches and a sparkling sea; blue skies on the day I arrived completed the perfect scene.
Accommodations at the Kona Village, a Rosewood Resort include standalone bungalows. Photo Credit: Courtesy of Kona Village, A Rosewood Resort
Rising from tsunami damage
Kona Village opened in the 1960s and built a strong following of customers who loved the hideaway. But it was shuttered in 2011 when a tsunami caused significant damage. It remained closed for a number of years before being bought by real estate investment company Kennedy Wilson in 2016 and was redeveloped with sustainability in mind.
It reopened last summer, retaining its island charm but, according to a fellow guest, becoming more posh.
After a quick tour of the grounds, I was shuttled by golf cart to my bungalow, set on the resort's natural lagoon. I lost my sense of direction quickly as my driver navigated the paths around the bungalows. I was given a map of the resort, but I was almost certain I'd be calling for another ride when I wanted to go to the pool.
Accommodations start at around $1,200 per night. Most are standalone, thatched-roof bungalows, their design derived from traditional Polynesian villages, and include one to four bedrooms. Some of them open directly onto the beach but angled in a way that keeps the experience private. A handful of other rooms, known as the Tree Top King Hale, are elevated high off the ground, nestled among the palm trees.
A sitting area and bed in one of the resort's bungalows. Photo Credit: Courtesy of Kona Village, A Rosewood Resort
Views from a bungalow
The interior of my 850-square-foot bungalow smelled new, the scent of the natural wood panels covering the space. My driver gave me a quick rundown of how to operate the different lights and told me that if I wanted privacy, I simply had to place the coconut outside the door. I laughed at the unusual and cute idea, and he told me it's a practice that was carried over from the previous owner.
After he leaves, I admired the patio view directly in front of the lagoon through the floor-to-ceiling glass doors. The room itself was one large space, with a wall separating the bathroom from the sleeping area. There was an indoor shower and soaking tub, but I was most excited about the outdoor shower.
After settling in, I caught a ride to the resort's cultural center, where there's a petroglyph field filled with drawings of crab claw sails, the type that would have been used on canoes hundreds of years ago. From there, I headed to the beach to explore some more.
The Moana Pool area at the center of the property has a large infinity pool and two hot tubs. Photo Credit: Christine Hitt
A hale for every need
Guests are encouraged to walk or bike from hale to hale, each structure serving a different purpose at the resort: a bar, a restaurant, a store or wellness center.
The Moana restaurant's steep, vaulted ceiling caught my eye. Architecturally, like everything else, it utilizes clean lines and geometric shapes, but the addition of thatched roofing and exposed wood beams, along with the local art displayed around the room, make it feel rooted in culture. The Moana is the resort's signature restaurant and serves Pacific Rim cuisine. The other restaurant on the property, Kahuwai Cookhouse, is the place to go for burgers and steaks.
A craft cocktail served at the Talk Story Bar on the beach. Photo Credit: Christine Hitt
Next to the Moana restaurant is the large Moana pool area, comprising an infinity pool and hot tubs, surrounded by cabanas and lounge chairs. It's one of four pools on property. The pools also have accompanying bars, including the Shipwreck Bar, built from a wrecked boat.
I walked to the Talk Story Bar, a little thatched-roof, open-air spot right on the beach. I ordered a craft cocktail, and, true to the bar's name, the bartender began to "talk story" -- the Hawaii way of saying he chatted with me.
As he mixed my drink, he asked me how I was enjoying the resort. I looked out at the ocean just steps away and the spectacular scenery all around me, and I told him how beautiful Kona Village was.
Nothing else needed to be said.